wow, the waves have been so good! just a little perfect south swell pushing some chest high waves all around town. and with this beautiful weather, it feels like summer!
and to see the locals enjoying themselves. cool vibe.
did a marathon surf session yesterday evening with Shiba-san. super stoked to see this energetic surfer hooked on surfing. he just started a year and a half ago and he’s doing great!
and his duck diving is perfect!
an afternoon of boot camp. i ask Shiba-san “do you want to get better in surfing?” he said “YES!” ok, let’s get there! then i take off behind him and guide him to perfect rides.
and you can tell how happy he was just by his smile paddling back out.
gosh, it’s only february and it feels like this year is flying by so fast. i’ve had such an awesome time surfing with everyone. so awesome that i can sleep with a big smile on my face every night right around 8pm. haha.
thank you Shiba-san for the marathon surf session. get ready for our north shore dawn patrol tomorrow early morning. i’ll pick you up at 5:45am sharp! be ready to get nervous. haha.
remember my avocado tree died? and before it died, it dropped a seed underground and created new life? well, it hasn’t been that long but each day i walk outside, i water the plant and talk to it. i say “give me some huge avocado’s baby!”
now look how big it is! not just one, but another one just grew out of the ground and now i have 2 very strong and growing avocado trees. can’t wait to she starts to give birth to some fruit! come on baby!
