Surfing Hawaii: Doggie Jump!

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check out this photo it took the other day. the coolest doggie jump! so stoked everybody enjoying the surf here in hawaii, even the dogs! i hope the owner and dog contact me somehow because i’d love to give this photo to them.
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Akane-san meets sunset!
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somebody asked me the other day, “do you get tired of working?” my answer was “not at all. i know how to balance my life so everyday is a brand new day for me.” pretty simple yeah?
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woke up this morning and started to create my breakfast. first i cut a banana, then add some blueberries.
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then some yogurt, then some chia seeds.
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then some granola, then top it off with honey. very organic and very healthy. from start to finish, it took me 3 minutes to create. and took me 5 minutes to eat. a great way to start off a busy day.
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took the honeymooners surfing this morning. the funny thing is that the whole island thought it was going to be too windy? that’s why nobody was out. but on days like this, you just have to time it right, and also be very lucky. we had both in our favor as the waves were perfectly clean and offshore. score! here is Asuka-san riding an empty wave while Sakurako-san paddling back out watching. cool photo.
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then had some pho. my 4th time this week but still loving each and every bite!
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then drove by diamond head. it was super windy out there. only 1 surfer in the water so i’m sure he was loving life.
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and speaking about loving life. i found this photo of me jumping for joy in front of mt. fuji a couple of years ago. for one, i love this mountain because it reminds me of my grandma and grandpa’s countless stories of climbing it. second, it makes me feel so happy to have climbed to the very top myself. and last, i didn’t know this old guy can still jump so high. haha.
anyway, strong typhoon winds continue and if you know where to look, you can score. as most surfers will be sleeping tomorrow morning, i’ll be out surfing somewhere. can’t wait for the challenge!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide