OMG! World War III?
Good morning 6am
North shore coming up to 6′ later today. Junky winds.
South shore shoulder high and perfect.
North/East winds at 20mph.
Sunny and cool day.
Surf morning and afternoon.
See you in the water!

i wore a black rubber wetsuit this morning and it was perfectly warm. then i wore my jersey wetsuit this afternoon and it was perfectly warm. my friend asked me why i have so many wetsuits? i told him, i have a wetsuit for every conditions. every wind and water temperature, i’m totally covered. and when i see other surfers out there wearing other brand wetsuits and are still cold, i just laugh to myself and think “i feel so sorry for you guys.” thank you Dove Wetsuits for always keeping me warm.

had a great time with Otsuka-san today. he’s only started to surf since last november. i could tell he was super energetic so we caught the bigger waves today. he learned how to turn right, turn left, and ride it forever.

and like everyone else, the smile after riding a good wave is priceless. as much as they love it, i do too.

thank you Otsuka-san for the wonderful time. and thank you Naho-san for sending him my way. keep on yoga and keep on surfing.

the sun over diamond head shot with Otsuka-san.

then went to pick up Asayama-san for day 3. omg, you wouldn’t believe how good he got. amazing progress.

found this photo of Aoi-kun on my computer. reminding me of his first pipeline experience. the kid is ripping these days.

found this photo of girls on my computer. going back to the days when i use to shoot models in bikinis. why the heck did i quit that job????? somebody slap me in the face. haha.

i like to analyze things. so when my gopro broke, i tried to find out why? i was very curious why gopro wouldn’t make the weak break point outside of the housing? for example, if the 2 mount pieces were made a little weaker than the housing itself, it would have simply broke off and the camera wouldn’t have gotten flooded with water. doesn’t that make sense for a $500 product? or did gopro do this on purpose so consumers would have to buy a whole new camera? either way, i’m pretty baffled by this poor construction.

yeah!!! nice riding!!! Asayama-san day 2 of 14. we really got lucky yesterday afternoon because the waves got super good right when we went out and it was empty. i told him, “ok, we are going to take your surfing up another level. we are only catching the best sets.” from the first wave, he was super stoked!

paddled back out with the big smile, and we did it again. again and again and Asayama-san didn’t want to stop. after 2 hours and many many waves, i told him the same thing i told him on day 1, “ok, i think you caught enough waves for today. we have 12 more days to go so better pace your energy.” haha.

Asayama-san told me that he wants to stay longer in hawaii. and he is already thinking about his next trip. haha.

we had some extra time so he got out his list of “things to do” and we did things one by one. i understand how good it feels good to cross things out.

then we went shopping and had a great time. i think after 14 days straight with Asayama-san, i might cry when he leaves. he’s such a very kind gentleman.

yesterday morning out at bowls, this young japanese kid paddles out. he paddles up to me and nods his head. it’s the japanese respectful way of saying hi. i really like when kids respect their elders. it comes from great parenting. so i say hi and watch him surf. omg, this kid was ripping! his name is Raiki-kun and is from miyazaki. i’m guessing he’s about 13 or 14 years old? i watch him take of on this beautiful wave.

then he lays the perfectly timed bottom turn. speed, power, and flow.

keeping his eyes on the target coming off the bottom.

keeping his knees bent before getting ready to hit the lip.

then he smashes the lip, Mick Fanning style.

and comes around and completes the ride. it’s the first time i seen this kid surf and he really impressed me a lot. but the thing that impressed me the most was him paddling up to me and saying hi. it takes balls to paddle up to a scary guy like me. haha. Raiki-kun is also a Dove Wetsuits rider so it made me really proud to be wearing Dove too. good kid and i wish him the best professional surfing career ahead.