today was victory at sea! the winds and weather was super junky but that didn’t stop Abe-san from catching paddling out. i told him “today is only for hard core surfers!” and there were only 2 other hard core surfers out. everybody else either stayed home, or went to work. it’s days like today where the ocean will create good watermen.

when we pulled up to the beach, i told the boys, “ok, get ready for some non-stop paddling today!”

the waves were pretty big and really bumpy, making it very hard to surf. but Abe-san caught some big sets and rode it out perfectly.

Yuta-kun had a few himself. perfect style!

today was very hard to surf so i give anyone credit for even trying. Yuta-kun succeeded.

after a couple of hours, we finally made our way in. Abe-san only surfs in hawaii so i was amazed on his energy level. he must have went over a hundred waves this morning just to get out.

awesome father and son surfing relationship.

then we went for some good vietnam food. oh, i love these! and yes, i’m allergic to shrimp but so what? i ate it anyway. haha.

large pho with rare steak and tripe. my favorite selection.

had an awesome talk during lunch. Abe-san lost many things from the tsunami, including the first floor of his house. talking about it 5 years later still brings chills to my bones. also talked about how Yuta-kun entered a contest in junior high school. he became the champion of “english pronunciation” of the whole Ishinomaki. i was wondering why his english was excellent! thank you boys for the victory at sea storm surfing! you guys did great!

imagine surfing a super good spot with perfect waves. everybody taking turns and cheering each other on. then paddling back out and talking story. then you look around and it’s just us out? perfect timing? or perfect time? i think both as i watch Chizu-san and Chifumi-san waiting for another wave to ride.

i use to call Chifumi-san “hard core” because she surfs every single day. now, i’ll call her “roxy girl” because she surfs just like Kelia Moniz. beauty on beauty.

yesterday, i watched her walk the board flawlessly all morning long.

and Chizu-san surfed super good too. the waves were so good that she stayed out for 4 hours.

i say in a month, Chifumi-san will be hanging ten very easily. guarantee!

Asayama-san was in hawaii so long that he became a local, and also became a friend to others. 26 years ago when i first went to japan, i had a dream. and the dream was exactly what came true yesterday. if it wasn’t for that trip and dream back in 1990, i’d be living in a very narrow and shallow world. and that could suck!

i pulled up the beach yesterday and saw Aoi-kun. i went up to him and said “hey, you’re surfing the Surf Into Summer contest at bowls in may. he looked at me “what???” if i didn’t think this kid was ready to surf the biggest amateur contest in the world with the best surfers in hawaii, i wouldn’t enter him. but i know this kid can turn some heads. so hey Aoi-kun, i’ll be cheering you on! practice everyday for the contest of your life! i know you can do it!

A Beautiful Hawaiian Lifestyle!
Good morning 6am.
HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH/WEST SHORES.
North shore 10′ later today and 18′ tomorrow. Junky conditions.
South shore shoulder high and onshore.
Ugly West winds at 20mph.
Sunny, warm, and unpredictable weather.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!