i asked Asayama-san in the morning, “do you want to go surf Bowls with 20 long boarders? or go surf a secret spot to ourselves?” he said “i want FREEDOM!” and i knew exactly what that meant. luckily, the conditions were absolutely perfect! i told him to paddle out and get one by himself. and he did it on the first wave that came by!

it was just us 2 kids playing around in the big ocean. surfing and laughing…

i caught so many good waves too! i just couldn’t let them pass me by…

i’m always coaching from all angles. this time, i’m right in back yelling “paddle!!!” haha.

then when i see the open face of the wave, i know it’s going to be an amazing ride. that makes me so happy!

then jumping back on Mayuki and enjoying the ride back. this is when the 2 of us are super happy!

day 2 of Boot Camp for Amari-san. surfing 10x better and enjoying the ride 100x more! good job Amari-san! keep on surfing!

Wow! My next new toy? What is VeFoil?

Good morning 5:30am.
New South swell! Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Light winds today so nice morning conditions.
Rain in the morning becoming super sunny and warm.
Have a wonderful day!

had a wonderful evening yesterday surfing with Amari-san. it was her very first time surfing so we had a light Boot Camp session. i was strict, but not much because she figured it out after a couple rides.

then she got into the rhythm and kept on surfing and surfing. so much energy!

great job Amari-san! you did great this evening too! photos of Day 2 Boot Camp coming soon…

good rides, good vibes…

this morning we went to get Mayuki prepared for some action. with this weather and waves being so perfect, you just never know what we’ll be doing this weekend. so headed off to get some gas.

and the water was crystal clear! good for diving? maybe right?

seen this amazing yacht that just pulled into the harbor. it was one of the cleanest yachts i ever seen.

my first mate boat man Asayama-san helping me prepare.

sometimes i wished i had only one gas tank. but since i have two, double this and a little more to fill her up. i spent almost $500 in gas today!!!

after surfing our secret spot, it was time for a homemade meal. straight to Andy’s for the pastrami sandwich and minestrone soup. just like how Mom use to make it when i was a kid.

getting prepared for anything. nobody knows where we will go, including myself. the only person that knows is Mother Nature. we shall see what happens…