what do people in Hawaii do during the Summer?

people grab a huge board, paddle out with some friends, and have the time of their lives.

people spend quality time with the family.

people like my foil teacher Micah show me how to do it right.

people like my friend Carter carve on the biggest emerald canvas like art.

people enjoy the ocean and what Mother Nature has to offer us.

people surf the perfect lefts at Ala Moana Bowls.

people surf challenging waves outside Waikiki.

on the biggest day, i got pounded by a huge wave, lost my gopro and hat. i found my gopro, but not my hat. i thought it was gone forever. then the next day, i come out of the water and see my hat on the back of my truck?? what???

then the following day, Bowls local surfer Bruce said “hey, found your hat.” omg! he found it in the inside, knew it was mine, and retuned it. i was so happy! thanks Bruce!

also want to thank Imai-san for the treat from Kyoto. itadakimasu!

ok, people get tattoos in very weird and private places on their body. but this girl decided to take it to another level. she tattooed her eyes blue!!!! omg!

Broken boards, broken hearts…

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana still 4’ and good. Bowls and Big Right’s best!
Diamond Head 3-5’ and challenging.
Waikiki head high and perfect.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and very warm day.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful Sunday!

this morning i gave Asayama-san an option. surf big and crowded Bowls, or surf big and uncrowded Old Man’s? Asayama-san liked the name so he chose Old Man’s. different color, different vibe, different wave, and different view. look at him go!

the water color out here is a lot more emerald because of the sandy bottom. so it matches the double rainbow pretty well.

the paddle out is twice as Bowls, much harder to catch a wave, way more current, so overall a much bigger challenge. but this man loves challenge and that’s what i love about him.

non-stop paddling, non-stop surfing, and non-stop fun!

this is the view i wanted to show Asayama-san. you’re really surfing right into Diamond Head.

Asayama-san was charging. just like everywhere we surf, he was the oldest man at Old Man’s.

great job again! i’m so happy you feel comfortable no matter where we surf. that’s a true surfer!

ended up our morning with a hot bowl of oxtail soup. delicious!

got my East side surf report this afternoon. she said it was too beautiful for surf today.

so i went to check big and wild Diamond Head. solid 5′, out of control, and nobody out. that’s just the way i like it!

i see my friend Barry and he says “let’s go Kirby!” i said “see you out there!”

i’ve been foiling for 6 months now, but today was the most exciting by far. i caught the biggest wave at Diamond Head, took the drop flying so fast i couldn’t see a thing. i kept my line, kept calm, and did 5 cutbacks all the way to the sandy beach. i haven’t had this ultimate feeling in a very long time. can’t wait till tomorrow…