the cold North winds must be keeping all the surfers indoors because the ocean is totally empty!  Seira-chan and only one other guy out this morning.  she was so lucky because the waves were so good again today!   and when surfers tell me they don’t really like to go backside, i say “ok, we’re only going backside today.”   improving your backside will make frontside surfing even better.   nice backside off the lip girl!   and when i coach kids, i pretty much let them do everything on their own.  if i help them too much, i’m not doing them any good.  when they learn on their own, they will never forget.  Seira-chan will never forget how to jump in, and come back up from these rocks.   4 days of Boot Camp and this girl is surfing 10x better already.  i’m so excited to see how good she will get.   straight to my favorite Pancake House for some hot chocolate loaded with whipped cream!  the best after a cold surf!  we ate so much and got so full after this!   surf, eat, and sleep.  the best lifestyle ever.  peace!

 another thing i’ve been teaching Seira-chan is to widen her vision.  meaning to look around at everything and not just the wave.  most surfers just look at the wave and focus only on that.  but experienced surfers can see much more than just a wave.   you can see turtles, dolphins, whales, and even sharks.  but you have to widen your vision to be able to experience all of this!   2 days ago, Seira-chan couldn’t see the whales jumping right in front of her.  but yesterday, she finally figured it out!   now she will see more of everything!  and at the same time, become a better surfer… what is a kook?  a kook is an inexperienced surfer.  a kook is a surfer that thinks he can surf better than he really can.  a kook is a surfer that doesn’t respect locals.   so when you see something like this at a local surf spot, you shouldn’t surf go out if you’re a kook.  simple… Carter and i surfed here since we were 12 years old.  so we’ve seen the fights, we’ve seen the violence, and we’ve seen the kooks.  there is no other spot in town that is more localized than Kewalos.  and if you act stupid out there, the boys will put you in your place… i was so happy to surf with my niece again yesterday!  2 times in the past 3 days!  pure luck!   how can someone hang 10 and throw 2 peace signs?  only Kelia Moniz can…  gosh, i love this photo! last time we saw Kelia, i totally forgot to take a photo of her and Seira-chan.  haha!  but i never make the same mistake twice… if all you women and men surfers don’t know, when ever you take a shower at the beach, all the water drains straight into the ocean.  so you’re not suppose to be shampooing your hair and scrubbing your body with soap.  the chemicals will kill the sea life, and also the reef.  got it?  so please take a proper shower at home…i wish the post this sign at Bowls too because i see so many people taking showers there.  i always tell my friends not to do it.  some listen, some don’t.  but if there was a sign like this, it would be pretty hard to ignore…

A Chocolate for you!

Good morning and Happy Valentines Day 6am.

North shore 4-6′ from the North direction.  Sunset and Laniakea best.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

North/East winds at 20mph.

Rainy morning and maybe clearing up later.

Going surfing!

Have a wonderful day!