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Monthly Archives: February 2019

Boot Camp Day 4

 since i have a new toy, i got up extra early to test it out.  paddled out to Bowls before sunrise and on the way out was greeted by Jeannie Chesser telling me “Foil Fuckers!”  haha…  i love Jeannie…i foiled for an hour and am finally figuring out how to adapt to this new kind of speed.  this bird is flying faster than ever!   came in at 8:30am to meet Ueda-san and Mayumi-san for Boot Camp Day 4.  today we were working on being relaxed and enjoying the ride.   just like this… and after yesterday’s challenging conditions, today was very easy.   in fact, it was almost too easy.  so next challenge was to take off on bigger waves.  look at Ueda-san go!  i don’t think Mayumi-san knew how big of waves she was catching.  when she took off, you couldn’t see her from behind.  so that means overhead for her!   it’s amazing how being more stronger and confident can make you happier and relaxed.  get ready for more challenging days ahead as the hurricane strength winds will pick up and 40′ swells wraps around from the North to the South.   yeah! and thank you Ueda-san and Mayumi-san for the sweets!   ate some today between surf sessions…and i still wasn’t done for the day.  foiled this evening for 3 hours at Diamond Head with all the foil boys.  good to see Tony Moniz back in the lineup running over anyone in his path.  haha…

i put in 3 rounds for 7 hours of water time today.  tomorrow will be more of the same thing.  stay tuned for many more photos coming.  but for now, goodnight…

Osaka All Day and Navy Seals…

 after our long surf session, we went to refuel with hulihuli chicken!  the boys were hungry!  then we started out or sightseeing tour.  started off at the famous Japanese Hitachi tree.  now it costs $3/each to go see it?  OMG!   times that by hundreds of people per day, that’s huge money!   that’s a pretty good business if you can make money just looking at a tree.   then went to Waikele to shop but there was nothing interesting.  so we pretty much drove all the way out there to use the toilet.  haha.  then some Taiwan milk tea on the way back. stopped by Diamond Head to look at the whales.  i seen 4 whales jumping all day yesterday, but absolutely nothing today.  that’s nature, that’s life…  but good to bump into many of my friends at the Cliff.   Edmond with the binoculars looking for foilers.  Ryo and Naoka just coming in from a surf, and the Osaka Boys enjoying the million dollar view.  imagine us 5 guys hanging out all day.  surfing, eating, sightseeing, talking story, and telling jokes.  it was hilarious!   thank you Morimoto-san, Ishimoto-san, Tomo-san, and Kengo-san for the amazing full day of laughs… after that, my day was still going strong.  went to surf with 2 other happy Osaka surfers.   it was onshore, windy, and super choppy.  really hard to surf, but with some determination, anything is possible.  look at Ueda-san go!  my board flew in the air and hit Mayumi-san in the knee.  she was in pain and wanted to go in.  i said “shake it off, bend it back and forth, and don’t think about it.  it’s all mental!”   i know that because i can just look in a persons eyes and tell the difference from pain and fear.   and i knew it was fear so i told her to calm down and relax.   five minutes later, she said “i’m ok now!”  haha.  all the pain was gone and she surfed even better than before… i’m not just teaching surfing to everyone, i’m teaching the mental aspect of being in a place you’ve never been before.  that’s why i go out in crazy days like this.   yes it’s very scary, but it’s days like this that will make you strong.  and by the end of our session, this couple was stronger than ever.   go Mayumi-san!  no pain, no gain!  thanks guys.  i hope you’re enjoying my Boot Camp because it’s still not over.  by the time you guys go back to Japan next week, you’ll both be Navy Seals.  haha…

February 8, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Welcome to the Great Wall of Ala Moana…

Good morning 6:15am.

North shore 4-6′ and coming up FAST!  Be careful!  Strong onshore winds and stronger currents.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

North winds at 20mph.

Sunny and very cool.

Going foiling, surfing, and foiling!

Have a wonderful day!