Saturday October4日 2025年

Monthly Archives: February 2019

Osaka Boys Talk: Part 1

 had the most amazing day with the boys from Osaka.  it was Ishimoto-san’s first surf and it happened to be right here in Hawaii.  i couldn’t believe how much energy he had!   and it was also Kengo-san’s first time surfing too!  super stoked rides and super stoked smiles.  they kept on riding waves after wave all by themselves.  amazing!   in the meantime, Morimoto-san and Tomo-san were outside waiting for the sets.   and when the sets came, it was freaking beautiful!  Morimoto-san having this nice right all to himself.    and passing by me in style… Tomo-san surfing so good too.  backside attack on this beautiful left. and many more after!   another perfect glassy right for Morimoto-san.  super smooth and nice style. i just love to watch surfers passing by me with the biggest smile… i couldn’t believe how perfect the waves were this morning.  it was almost too perfect!   as for energy level, Ishimoto-san and the most.   he couldn’t stop catching wave after wave after wave.  where does he get all that energy from???  i want some of that!  thank you boys for the wonderful full day of surf, sun, sightseeing, laughs, and lots of boys talk.  i had a blast…

after i dropped off the boys to their hotel for their afternoon nap, i went to pick up 2 more energetic Osaka surfers.  it was strict Boot Camp in the hardest conditions you could imagine.  it’s days like this that make the strong even stronger.  many more photos coming soon.  but for now, i’m going to sleep…

New is Exciting and Respect Culture…

 pretty happy and exciting to try new things.   and when you drop $1,500 on something, it better work!  haha… i’m not sure yet if it was worth the investment.  give me a few more days and i’ll know.   but for now, i’m going faster than ever so if i have to pay money for speed, i’m 100% in!   ok everybody, this is my dream bathroom.  i would love to use it, but i wouldn’t love to clean it.  haha… good to see Japanese heavy locals here in Hawaii.  i still can’t tell you where this legend surfer is from, but i can tell you that it’s my favorite barrel in the whole world.  i’m a very lucky guy to be able to surf there, and i want to keep it that way so please don’t ask me.  i respect all the local there and i respect their rules.  thank you guys always for sharing your sacred wave with my for the past 27 years.  i owe all you guys lots of barrels.  so when you come to Hawaii, you can have any wave i paddle for… Nao-san still getting me jealous by sending me photos like this… and very sacred cultural spots in Japan.  so amazing…speaking of culture.  some European pro snowboarders came to Hawaii and tried to snowboard Mauna Kea.  it didn’t snow so they decided to snowboard it anyway.  really?  so they carved up and down the sacred mountain and posted it on social media.  Mauna Kea is a very sacred place for Hawaiians.  people here are pissed off and i don’t blame them.  Hawaiians killed Captain Cook and ate him.  so i have advise for the Europeans that posted that on social media,  “i wouldn’t come back here if i were you.”    there is no excuse for disrespecting anyones culture like this…

February 7, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Local Motion Maki-san @ Diamond Head.  Yesterday afternoon fun!!!

Good morning 6:15am.

North shore 2-4′ and clean.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

Light winds so nice morning conditions.  Strong winds coming.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!