last week it was so cold and so small. paddled out to Bowls and seen local boys Rodney and Pat out. i told them “you guys are hard core. i respect guys like you.” because i really respect the hard core surfers in this world.
last week was freezing cold, this week is like Summer! perfect time for Oshima-san!
smooth and clean conditions for the girls…
i always have a great time surfing and laughing with Oshima-san…
clam and cool…
smooth and stylish…
today was my first time of 2019 on a shortboard! my cut is still pushing out chemicals, my ankle still hurts, but this is my rehabilitation. surfing is my happiness, and surfing is my life. without it, i’d be an asshole…
i’m getting old so been misplacing my keys a lot. now i have the Tile GPS on it so everything should be alright. PEACE…
more from our deep blue adventure the other day. if i were a shark, this would be my dinner…
Seth use to tease me when they first saw me with a full suit and hood when i took them diving for the first time. that day, a jellyfish wrapped around Seth’s snorkel and stung his whole face. ever since then, Seth dives with a full suit and hood too. haha… look at this beautiful box jelly fish!
when ever i pass by Ala Moana and see the where the 3 pedestrians were killed, it makes me think. it could have been any one of us. 
welcome to marijuana California! it’s legal to smoke there but i still don’t think it’s right. i’d hate to see the day it’s legalized in Hawaii, but i can feel it coming soon…
heard about the American college student that went to Japan, drank too much, and broke a lamp in this bar in Shibuya? then he got stupid with the police after and went to jail. that was 9 months ago and he’s still in there. i tell all the Hawaiian kids that go to Japan “hey, Hawaii is Hawaii, Japan is Japan. don’t do anything stupid there because the laws are different. it’s very strict and you have no rights.” i wish i could have given this American kid some advise too. 
i was sparing with Satoko in Bali a few years ago. she punched me in the face pretty hard so i put down my gloves and took out my camera. then she punched me again after i took this photo. haha…
Chizu-chan @ clean Rockpiles…
