i looked at Diamond Head 3x today and foiled early in the morning.  it was so perfect and i can finally feel my balance returning to normal… decided to go to yoga class right after because i want to be very active today.  my instructor Pablo was amazing as usual.  very hard as my cut was stretching back and forth, but it was very rewarding at the same time… i just cooked the last 2 tako from my freezer last night.  kind of sad not to have anymore so better go hunting soon… i can eat this over and over.  when the water cleans up from all this rain, i’m going tako hunting so i can reload my freezer… and hopefully i can get a monster tako like this again… i watched the beginning of the Super Bowl because i wanted to hear the National Anthem.  like always, i had chicken skin and was very proud to be an American!  drove home this evening right into the brightest rainbow.  it’s been like this everyday for a while now.  can’t complain about anything…more and more photos i’m finding on my hard drive.  this is classic Wakayama…

 thank you Asayama-san for sending me this photo.  it must be freezing but lucky you have Dove Wetsuit to keep you warm… thank you Yumi-chan for pure culture.  i really like your kimono!   thank you Dr.  Keinosuke-san for really caring about my cut.   can’t wait to surf with you and your boys next month!   thank you Nao-san for the amazing cultural photos.   this looks so delicious!  i want to eat it!!!after finally retrieved the photos off the hard drive that just broke, i thought i should post them on my blog so it won’t get lost again.  8 years ago, it was Romy Shrimp time with the girls!  Nao-chan, Mari-chan, and Ai-chan!

October 4, 2010:  Kekoa Mau @ Timor Boat Trip.

Good morning 6:30am.

North shore 4-6′ and good.  Volcom Pipeline Pro ON @ 8am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.  Small South swell?

Diamond Head chest high and fun.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!