Saturday October4日 2025年

Monthly Archives: February 2019

February 1, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

October 1, 2010.  Visiting the Indonesian dog market…

Good morning 7am.

North shore 4-6′ and junky.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and fun.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Surf and construction day.

Have a wonderful day!

Kelly Slater: Made in China

 want to thank Kyle for sending me these photos from yesterday.  super cool hanging out with the boys.  haven’t done this in a very long time so pretty happy day… good job Seth on finding that tasty fish!   it was super cold and windy but i was craving to foil.  i pulled up to Diamond Head early in the morning and it was actually warm and clean.  once again, i had the whole inside to myself!   foiled like a free bird!   then went to Home Depot to get some materials for my project.   thank goodness i have a truck!   building things is like therapy for me.  you have to use your brain and figure things out.   i learned all of this by just watching my Grandpa build houses when i was a kid.  and when i’m fixing up my house, that’s all i think about… almost missed my Genius Bar appointment!  thank goodness the Apple store is less than 10 minutes away from my house.  and yes, the Genuis recovered all the 26,000 photos i lost!   came back home and painted.  everything should be coming together tomorrow! does this look familiar?  yes, it is the Chinese version of the Kelly Slater wave pool.  costs 1/5 the price and is ready for sale!  i’m pretty sure Kelly is freaking out at this!

HANDODAT Brothers

 it’s hard for me to accept that the boys are grown men now.  it seems like yesterday they were just kids.  watching Joshua with his hair all wild swimming so peacefully in the ocean makes me so happy.   i watch from the side thinking to myself “wow, these kids are connecting to the ocean more and more.  and also becoming excellent watermen.”   Seth is the hunter of the family.  of all the kids, Seth has this instinct not too many people have.  you can put this kid in a remote jungle 1000 miles away and he will make it back home… i kept on telling Seth to keep calm.  then after 5 times of that, he said “Uncle, i’m calm!”  haha…  i think i better calm down…. and if any of the kids has the best luck when it comes to being in the right place at the right time, it’s Seth… it’s crazy the kind of smiles nature can bring out in a kid… i saw a thick shark approaching and wanted to see the boys reaction.  but they didn’t see it and it swam away.  bummer…both these kids are like precious treasure to me.  they always make me so happy, and they always make me very proud.  i can’t pick them up and hug and kiss them anymore, but i can sit on the side of them feeling oh so good.  no matter what they choose in their lives, i’ll love them the whole way.  i think it’s called “unconditional love.”

then i get home from diving with them and this amazing video was just uploaded online.  i watch it thinking to myself “wow, wow, and wow!”