got a text at 5am, “waves look super fun.”  forget breakfast, forget brushing my teeth, i was out the door and heading to the North Shore.  i start paddling out and this was to my left…and this was to my right.  i couldn’t believe how beautiful it was.  Donald borrowed my board and almost never gave it back.  haha.  right after this, he went to order a new foil.  so yes, i’m on the best foil in the market right now.  it was nice to see Kaiborg.  use to surf Backdoor with him almost every day so when i paddled out, i told him “i know you know where the best waves will come.  so i’m going to sit and wait right next to you.”  he said “no, go away.”  haha.  we had the best session ever!Uncle Brian Surrat is over 70 years old but enjoying life like a teenager.  so fun sharing waves and stories with these legends.  it’s like Disneyland for us, or even better.  we take off on the same wave and scream the whole way!  i rode my last wave to the beach so over a 2 minute ride.  came in, talked story to the boys in the parking, and went home very happy little kids.  Kaiborg told me today “this is a new chapter in our lives.  can’t beat it.”  he is absolutely right!

since i went to the North Shore, i stopped by my favorite place.  Surfers Coffee!  due to the lockdown, it was completely empty…this place use to be very popular so it was kind of sad to see it barely surviving.  i went there because Nao-san sent me a gift card from Japan so i can support her favorite place too.  thank you Nao-san!  the Tiger Spice Chai Tea was amazing!  and whenever i go to Surfers Coffee, i gaze at the poster on the wall of Tony Moniz at Pipeline.  one of the best photos of Pipeline ever…then wanted to support local even more so headed to buy local eggs.  now i just drive up and the staff puts the eggs in my car.  i bought 5 carts so that’s 150 fresh eggs!Donald and i pulled up to this spot.  one of the locals was in the parking lot and said “there is a big shark in the lineup so everybody just came in.”  wow, good timing!  i told the local “there are sharks here everyday dude.”  then i paddled out, surfed by myself while Donald watched.”  Donald never came out and when i was driving home, i was wondering if he didn’t want to come out because of the shark?  anyway, i scored perfect foiling surf all to myself…

Yes, KEEP OUT!

Good morning 4:30am.

Ala Moana chest high and good.  New South swell coming.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to the sea.

Have a wonderful day!