Ala Moana Bowls on FIRE!

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

everyday, my routine starts at home at 3am.  then by the time i get into the ocean, i’m 100% alert, clear, and present.  nothing beats that feeling.

now i have surfers that enjoy it too.  it’s pretty cool to experience things like this.  Hajime-san in the dark.

then when the sun starts to creep over Waikiki, it turns into a golden moment like this.  

the swell was shoulder high, clean, and perfect for bottom turns like this.  

another early morning bird.  you can start to see how happy Mother Nature can make us.  and excited too!  this South swell is here for another week so expect epic Summer surf from dawn to dusk…

paddling out to Bowls use to be very safe, but not anymore.  there are so many beginners out there so you better be alert when paddling out.

i was paddling on the side of these 2 beginners.  then they both looked at me and paddled right in front of me.  i saw a wave coming and i knew what was about to happen.

so i paddled on the side and watched as this wave broke on this girls head.

the wave pushed her off her board and her board just missed my head.  i knew it was coming so i just blocked it with my hand.  the girl grabbed her board and paddled back out.  no apology and didn’t even look at me because she didn’t even know what happened.  abunai…