Full moon surfing and loving it…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist high and coming up. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head waist with chest high sets and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

another early morning surf session.  it looks like daylight but it’s actually pitch dark.  that’s the moon. 

this is what it looks through the naked eye.  

i still think Hawaii is the most magical place in the world.  

and when you’re surfing in the dark, it’s even more magical!  i wouldn’t be surprised if Hajime-san surfs in the dark when he goes back to Japan.  he’s really good at it!

and once the sun comes up, it’s almost too easy.  

the waves were small today but all the local boys were out.  being in the ocean is better than being at home right?  that’s for sure!

then i rushed home because my delivery was coming.  i’ve been preparing for this, and waiting for this for a long time.  yippie!!!

this is how dark it is when the clouds block the moonlight.  all you can see is the moons reflection on the oceans surface and that’s how you watch the waves roll in.  and when you see a good one, you turn around and go!

Hajime-san was connected to the ocean in the dark.  he rode a few long ones and i bet must have felt amazing!

i still remember when i was in high school, i use to go with my brother and we use to sleep in the car at Rockpiles and surf the full moon swells.  that was 40 years ago and i still love it till this day…