no rain…

no rainbow…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana overhead and perfect.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

i remember paddling out to Backdoor on some big days when it was even darker than this.  most of the time i was the first one out, but sometimes i would see one single silhouette out surfing at Pipeline.  we would cross paths in the lineup a few times and when it got lighted, we would look at each other and laugh.  that one silhouette would always be Wade Tokoro.  so surfing in the dark always brings back those golden memories…  

there were still some big sets this morning.  if you got caught inside, you would have to throw your board on the side and dive under.  or if you’re lucky like this girl, you barely make it over.

i’ve been seeing some impressive surfing this swell.  it’s the biggest day for this girl and she was taking off on her own.  sometimes fail, and sometimes making it.  but when you make it, it will make you smile all day long…

another lucky man sneaking over a huge set!  

Takami-san and Toda-san bumped into Seth on the beach.  pretty cool because they watched Seth grow up from a little baby to one of the best surfers in the world.  it’s pretty cool!

Leo just turned 13 years old!  so he went from a boy to a young man!  i told him he’s a big boy now so you have to be able to surf on your own.  he said ok and started paddling for this wave.

then he stands up and gives a shaka!  haha.  so much confidence.  i love it!

i’m super happy for being able to create memories with these kids year after year.  i can watch them grow into fine young adults.  and our connection in the ocean is better than anything.  all we do is laugh and enjoy the precious moment…

right when we came in, Seth Moniz came in from Bowls too.  i took this photo because Leo had no idea who Seth is.  i told him to go home and google Seth and he will find out.  and maybe putting his hand around this famous world tour surfer will give him some inspiration.  i hope so.

by the way, Seth surfed for the first time since his injury in Bali and he told me he feels good!  and he looks good too!  i was so happy to see him back in the ocean.  get ready for J-Bay!!!!