i stopped and took some photo of the boys.  i think this is Carter?

I couldn’t figure this guy out.  Looked like Malcom but it wasn’t.

i could recognize Dean from miles away.

and Troy because he always gets the sets.

Lance Hookano came by my house with his ebike.  we always have good talks.  i love this guy because when ever he paddles out to any spot on this island, he regulates.  so if you’re not acting properly, he will yell at you and send you in.  i’ve seen him send in hundreds of guys for the past 35 years.  and the cool thing about it is all the guys i seen him send in, they all deserved it.  so to all you disprectful surfers, be respectful before i tell Lance.  haha…

BIG SET COMING!!!!  A very lovely moment…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets. Good.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

a beautiful Saturday morning and it was either surf with 30 surfers and wait my turn?  or foil with 15 surfers and not wait my turn?  since the swell is almost gone, that was an easy choice.

it doesn’t matter where i go when i have my foil.  i just need a small knee high wave to get me started and once i’m up, nobody can stop me.  i only stop when i run out of breath.  haha.

always good to see the Uncles out having fun every single day.  i respect these guys lifestyle so much and i hope i’m doing the same thing when i get to their age.

even though the waves are only waist to chest high, it still feels like i’m taking off on a 10′ wave.  i love the feeling of speed!

i passed by Bowls on the way back and it still looked fun.

but with this many guys out, i wouldn’t have had fun today.  i needed to get out of the cage and fly again…