Monthly Archives: June 2022

For Sale: A-Frames Island Mentawai

Panangalat Island is located right in the middle of the “Playground” area in the Mentawai Islands.  right off this island is one of the calmest places to anchor a boat in the Mentawai’s.  so i’ve slept right in front of this island many nights.  it’s calm, lots of fish, amazing sunsets, millions of stars, and some of the cleanest water in the world.  this island is also surrounded by white sand so we’ve taken jogs, walks, and hunted shells many times.  not to mention, world class surf breaks all over the place.  if you visited here before, you would have probably asked yourself “that would be cool to own this island?”  i asked myself that every time i went there!  

i tell every surfer that a surf trip to the Mentawai Islands should be on the top of your bucket list.  it’s the best surf trip in the world by far.  all kinds of waves for everyone.  from small fun waves to some of the longest and heaviest barrels in the world.  i’ve clocked in a 23 second barrel once.  nobody believes me, but i don’t care.  once you go there, you will become a believer.  i’ve been on 20 or so boat trips in the world and more than half was in the Mentawai’s.  will i go again?  100% for sure!

Waves around the island include Kandui, Baby Kandui, Pistols, Rifles, Four Bobs, Karingbat Left and Malibu’s.  and i heard later this year they will open a new airport nearby so it will accessible by a 25 minute boat ride.  until now, you had to do a 12 hour overnight channel crossing that will make the strongest watermen throw up.  but once you get there, it’s paradise!

check out this video and your mouth will start to water.  all you need is $1M for a 99 year lease to this island all to yourself.  if you decide to buy it, please invite me.  haha.

June 4, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

Perfect conditions all week!

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets. Good!
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light trade winds at 10-15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!

Black Magic Tesla

the ocean has finally calmed down.  i paddled out early this morning just in case there were some big leftover sets.  there was only one big set all morning.  now i know that the swell is long gone, i can take a break and rest my body.  big waves for a week, lots of duck diving, and heavy wipeouts.  today’s afternoon sauna session fixed everything!

i have so many magic boards now for every kind of size and condition.  that’s the only thing that’s keeping me wanting to surf more and more. i feel like a kid again!  this is my 5’7 Black Magic ION twin fin shaped by Mike Woo. it feels like i’m riding a Tesla on water!  lots of accelerating speed with autopilot.  haha…

i see the coolest things at the beach.  this guy was doing yoga on his surfboards on the rack of his truck.  that front row ocean view must be amazing!  very smart!