opps, forgot to post this. so here it is:
waves finally came down so all the small wave riders are back in the lineup. there was one guy that was so aggressive out at Bowls today. i wanted to tell him “brah, where were you when the waves were big?” haha… it’s so hard for me to respect guys like that…
i took out a super good surfer that wanted his identity to be unknown. he was surfing so good that i felt like i had to surf better too. thanks for the inspiration! i was feeling good on my Kerry Tokoro “Josh Moniz” model. actually, that’s Joshua’s board i borrowed and never gave back. haha…
the other day i was surfing, i saw a familiar face. OMG, it was UFC World Champion Max Holloway! we talked story and since Kelia, Joshua, and Seth train with him, i asked him how they’re doing. the first thing he said was “mark my words, Seth will be World Champion. he’s got the mental and you can’t teach that kind of mental to a kid like that. it’s natural. he will just have to adapt because he’s in the big leagues, but once he does, he will become World Champion guarantee!” i was so happy to hear that from a World Champion himself… thanks Max, wish you the best of luck on your fight next week! i’ll be watching…
