Drop in, and Drop Out!

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i saw this girl out trying and trying to get a good wave.  then when i seen this huge wave coming, i yelled to her “GO!”  and she went for it!  and rode it all the way in… good job Vicky!  enjoy the stoke!  Toda-san foiled the morning he left.  Takami-san was already waiting in the car so Toda-san had to ride this one in.  i followed behind and seen an accident before it actually happened.  haha… 3 guys on one wave isn’t good.  and if you’re behind a foiler, that is even worst.   because when you drop in on a foiler, this happens.  twice the drama, and three times the pain… i kind of felt sorry for the longboarder that dropped in on Toda-san.  but at the same time, he shouldn’t have dropped in in the first place.  it was very preventable…went in and saw this other surfer bleeding from his foot.  this wasn’t from Toda-san’s foil, it was from his own fin.  ouch!  i told him “dude, you better go to the hospital because that needs stitches.”

please surf and foil safe everybody.  and most of all, never ever drop in on a foiler!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide