i woke up at 4am this morning to watch my nephew Joshua Moniz surf the big contest in Portugal. so stoked to see him win his heat! so far, Josh hasn’t been having the best year, but i know once he turns on that switch, he’s unbeatable. 
then i watched Kitahama-san surf as good as it gets. riding the sets from the outside and turning into the big walls… 
Lisa-chan is very well balanced for a 14 year old girl. super stable and super confident. 
even if she ran over somebody, she wouldn’t fall. this is perfect surfing! 
and you get a happy smile for that one! 
i don’t know where Kitahama-san gets all his energy from. every time we surf, he must catch about 25 waves per session. this is just one of them.
thank you guys for the great day of Boot Camp. see you bright and early tomorrow morning for Day 3! 
Seira-chan was out enjoying the surf just like a local girl would. i always tell her to stay away from everybody so she can focus on herself. and why surf with everybody when you can surf in your own space? 
then when a good wave comes to you, you can take your time and take off without anybody hassling you. 
then you get the perfect wave of the day and then find someone dropping in on you at the end? oh boy! when i’m on my foil, nobody drops in on me. but when a young Japanese girl gets the best wave of the day, somebody drops in on her. oh boy! 
i still can’t believe how good this girl is surfing. 
then we went for an evening session at Diamond Head. omg, the waves were the best! a lucky girl with a lucky day again!
