Secret Choices and 4X4 Style

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i pick up Seira-chan and gave her the options.  Bowls or Secrets?  she chose the secret spot and if you saw how big and barreling the waves were, you would freak out!

since i can’t show any photos from on top, i’ll show from the bottom.

we were waiting for a wave and when a set started approaching from the outside, i saw something swimming straight for us.  it was swimming fast to us and at the last minute, it turned to the left.  it was a shark!  that was so cool to see!  we had a great session with practically nobody around.  it was like a dream…

OMG!  my $1,000 new foil isn’t working too good.  i feel like a beginner again.  haha…

then off to another secret spot on Seira-chan’s request.  this girl can be a Hawaii guide!  haha…

right when we were finishing lunch, the dessert came out.  hot and fresh…

i came home and found this little girl playing at my house.  such a cutie…

on Oahu, it is illegal to go off road.  but on the Big Island, you can go where ever your car desires…

that’s why i always rent a Jeep!

one of the roads to our dolphin cove.  i couldn’t believe they were there for the 2 days we were there.  lucky!

pretty cool to see ancient Hawaiian Heiau’s.  temples made thousands of years ago…

want to thank Mama and Papa Iwata-san for the treats and chopsticks.  gosh, i already miss you guys!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide