ONO SURFING

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i can’t believe how popular ONO SEAFOOD has become.  this use to be a little hole in the wall where only locals knew about.  now, it’s a a main tourist attraction!   but it’s still super good so nobody’s complaining.  especially not us…i told Renta-kun that he will suffer in the beginning.  but when he figures it out, he will have the time of his life…and i also told him never to do this!!!!  only surfer girls can do this and look cute.  this is not for boys!  Mateus was so excited to surf.  he even helped me wax the board.i’d rather him wax my surfboard than draw pictures with crayons on my dinner table.  haha.as we were paddling out, Mateus was waving to everybody.  and everybody kept on saying how cute he is…i always take my time with kids and wait for the perfect timing to get to the outside.  if we get tipped over on the way out, any kid will say “i want to go in.”  so yeah, i’m taking my time and Mateus says “why are you taking so long Uncle?”  i think he was really getting bored.  haha.  but once we got our first wave, everything was worth the wait.  look how happy he is!  perfect form and perfect smile.  good job Mateus!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide