Head and Feet Festival…

202

 another epic early morning.  today we took the longboards and had intensive Boot Camp.  Seira-chan knows what to do which is, once you do the beautiful bottom turn…. then walk the board.  this is how you’re supposed to ride the longboard. and in the 3.5 hours we were out, we seen so many rainbows.   it’s Seira-chan’s dream to live in Hawaii so it’s better to start making surfer friends already.  the more friends, the happier surfing time… after riding 30 waves per day, cross steps will become natural like this.   and when you can do it in style like this, life is good. walking on a surfboard will riding a wave?  i think that’s so cool…good job girl.  things are looking so natural and confident.  whenever you tell me how happy you are, i feel the exact same way.  smile… i was teaching Mateus how to do a headstand.   and he just pops up and does one.that’s the cool thing about being young and flexible.  good boy Mateus!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide