A Thick Crowd

104

I knew the contest was going to be on but also knew there was a rare South swell in town that I didn’t want to miss.  So why not do both?

The crowd was thick this morning.  If you weren’t a local, good luck trying to get a wave at Bowls.  

I haven’t seen it this crowded since last Summer.  Everybody was super hungry.  

There were some head high sets that were perfect!  I got a couple good ones which was enough.

Now I know why I like to foil.  I don’t have to share waves with anyone.  I can take off on a wave and ride 10 waves all to myself.  I surely don’t miss these crowds.

Then went to the Pipeline Pro to watch my Nephews heats.  One out of two survived so we’re still in.  Bummer the waves were so junky.  I think Bowls was better.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide