good evening. pulled up to bowls this morning thinking it was going to be small, junk, and crowded. i was wrong. it was perfect, chest high, and hardly anybody out. in fact, when i first got out, there were only 6 japanese surfers. it felt weird going out at one of the most packed surf spots on oahu and saying “ohayo gozaimasu”… ended up surfing for 3 1/2 hours. so fun…. score baby….
meet my new blackberry. it’s like a pocket computer. now i just have to find out how to use the dam thing….
and look how nice the photos come out. this is not a painting. this is diamond head cliffs today at 1pm. 4′ and epic. if you weren’t there, you missed out…
