TSUNAMI WARNING….

420

good morning. 3am here in japan. no, i’m not coming home from a long night, i’m getting up and going surfing. it gets light here at 4am so go to be on it early. hope i score. get this. there is a tsunami coming to japan in a couple of hours. there’s sirens and all kinds of things going on. the earthquake in peru sent a tsunami this way. it might sound crazy but i’m going surfing……
anyway, how hot was it yesterday? crazy ass hot!! it was another 100 degree day in japan. it’s been 74 years since a heat wave like this hit here. it’s the hottest day i’ve ever experienced here. i walked 2 minutes to buy a drink from the machine and i was pouring in sweat. 8 people already died from this heat and that number will probably rise. hotter than bali, hotter than mexico, and hotter than anyplace i’ve ever been. there’s supposed to be some clouds moving in next week so it should get cooler. so here’s my advice. drink a lot of water and stay out of the sun. i’m heading out to the beach now and i hope i don’t get a heat stroke. i hope i can stay in the barrel where it’s much cooler. haha.. have a nice hot stinky sweaty day….

want to stay cool here? eat shave ice. it’s not as good as waiola shave ice in hawaii, but anything cool taste good when your hot. it’s kind of funny because right when my friend took this photo, i was starting to get a mean ice cream headache. itai….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide