50 cm Tsunami….

370

good evening. the tsunami came and gone and nobody even knew about it. it supposed to have come at 9am and i was surfing with matchi at that time. maybe one of us caught the wave? oh well…. anyway, we left this morning at 3:30am and i finally got back at 2:30pm. it was a long day of driving and super hot too. we jumped in a river to rinse off and it felt pretty good. cool fresh water on a hot summer day…..

check out some photos of the awaodori dance the other night in tokushima. it’s something worth seeing….

the streets were loaded with girls in this costume. i’d say at least 10,000 of them….

they closed every street in the city and there it was jammed packed with people everywhere. you could barely walk on the sidewalks. seemed like a million people were there….

after 15 years of coming to japan, i still feel like a tourist. got to have one of these photos…..

on the way back today, we stopped by a river mouth near matchi’s house. i was watching this little perfect knee high wave peeling off to the side. i was thinking how much fun my nephews would have on this wave. i wish i can bring all of them here someday….

and here i am back home. i love it here. wake up to the sound of the waves. and the nights have been so clear that you can see millions of stars shinning all night[:???:][:???:][:???:]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide