good morning. 6:30 am on this cold tuesday morning. the north/west swell came down but it’s still huge and unsurfable at most north shore spots. west side is probably going off today. town is smaller but still fun. trade winds today but north/west winds coming tomorrow so enjoy today because tomorrow the waves will get ugly again. i’m going surfing!!! have a nice day!!!
yesterday was the biggest day i seen on the west side since 20 years ago. tracks was big, green lanterns was too big, maile point was too big, sewers was too big, and makaha must have been 15′. 20 years ago was also the day tony gave me a short board and said “let’s surf makaha.” the waves were huge that the channel was closing out. and nobody was as crazy as us to even paddle out. it was tony, me, and the whole ocean that day. i paddled out and got sucked over on a 15′ set. i almost died that day. i told this story many of times in my life and when ever i relive it, i get the chills…
every time after i surf the west side, i stop by my favorite filipino restaurant in waipahu. it’s cheap and super good!! matchi and i ate chicken adobo, fried pork, and squid. i can’t wait to go back again…
the world junior championships are going on right now as we speak in australia. the boys from japan, hawaii, and the rest of the world are battling for the title. good luck boys.
**CLICK HERE FOR LIVE COVERAGE OF THE BILLABONG WORLD JUNIOR CHAMPIONSHIPS…..
**tiga means three in indonesian. that’s how many rounds i surfed yesterday and i don’t remember the last time i surfed that many times in one day. surfed twice on the west side with matchi. we scored this really long wave with not too many people out. then after lunch, i came home to do some work on my computer. i turned on the south shore cam to check the waves and i knew it was going to be onshore and shitty. 10 minutes into returning emails, the waves were getting better and better. i checked the winds around the corner and saw it turning from south/west to north. there were only 5 guys out and this was my chance. i shut down my computer, jumped into my car, and headed down to bowls. as i paddled out, i felt the chill of the north winds and by the time i caught my second wave, the waves were EPIC!! perfect sheet glassy waves with a slight off shore wind. nobody knew so nobody was out. it was the best and cleanest bowls i surfed in years…. tiga means three!!!
**sorry to all of you who didn’t get a response yet. as you know, i’ve been super busy. i’ll get back to all of you this week. mahalo….
