We Missed Hawaii!

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the waves today in town were perfect again! super good and super empty. just a few surfers enjoying all the perfect waves, including me!
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Yamashita-san’s been surfing for 5 years. when i picked him up this morning, i asked him if he can do a cutback. he said “no.” so i told him today you will do one. through my experience, i believe if you can surf sidewards and go up and down, you can do a cutback. it just takes the proper technique. so i teach him on the beach, then i teach him from the water. you can hear me yelling from behind. haha.
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after a couple waves, Yamashita-san did his first cutback! then he did another one, then another one, and another one. once you get the proper technique down, it’s so easy! now he’s be going back to japan cutting back everywhere! i seen Yamashita-san’s surfing level go way up today. and he was so stoked!
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great surfing Yamashita-san! hope you enjoy the rest of your honeymoon in hawaii and have a safe trip back to fukuoka! you surfed so good today! and so was i!
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gosh, i love Kelia’s board. nice color and so smooth! my friend just bought it and she’s freaking super happy with it! i would be too.
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nice to see Chizu-san today. she just got back from japan yesterday and told me “i missed hawaii!” i know exactly how she feels.
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went for some hot pho for lunch. thank you again Yamashita-san for an awesome day!
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the best of the best in hawaii. combination pho from BacNam.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide