it’s amazing what fins can do to a board. i had small scarfini fins on my board and right before i surfed yesterday, i put bigger ones on. and guess what? it worked so much better!
check out this new drone that just came out. it’s called the Skeye-Nano. has a built in camera and i think i’m going to get one.
only $69 so pretty cheap. can’t wait to fly it in your house. haha.
happy to see this beautiful photo of 2 beautiful women and 1 samurai man. haha. thank you Yumie-san for sending me this photo. i’m surprised you guys bumped into each other in okinawa. what a small world! by the way, you look like you’re glowing as usual. hope to see you soon. and once again, congratulations on 40 years of marriage Kimura-san and Atsuko-san!
so happy to see this photo of Saori-san and her train driver surfer friends. looks super cold and super familiar there! omg, i surfed there a few years ago in the snow. that’s japan sea!
yesterday diamond head was unbelievable! super perfect conditions all day long. it seems like our summer didn’t end yet.
was enjoying the weather thinking to myself “this is way too good to be true. i seriously can feel some dark cold rainy days ahead. 19 days of this perfect weather is strange at this time of year.”
when i was outside hanauma bay yesterday looking at makapuu point, i had a flashback. it’s the first time i’ve been back there since i paddled the 13 miles from makapuu to waikiki. i came from around that point at 6am in the pitch dark. i was alone, it was dark, super rough, and i knew there were huge whales and hungry sharks all around me.
then i remember looking at diamond head and it seemed so dam far. i remember padding my fastest, nonstop, and telling myself over and over, “don’t give up!”
**here it was 2 years ago. brings back the crazy in me memories. would i do it again? no way. next time i’m going for the gold: molokai to oahu. see you at the finish line.
[youtube]https://youtu.be/trgzi5uT-Qg[/youtube]
