omg, did you look at the ocean today? i sure did. the worst day in a very long time. 2 days ago, i knew it was going to be like this. pretty bad.
i was actually supposed to take Jun-san surfing today but the day before yesterday, i asked him to change it to yesterday. that turned out to be the best choice because yesterday was super fine! so fine that there were only the 2 of us surfing out at rock piles. we scored!
so stoked to surf with Jun-san for his first time in hawaii.
we paddled out at the perfect time. some fun waves and nobody else out. Jun-san surfs isounora in wakayama which is the most packed surf break in japan. so it must have felt so weird to surf in beautiful hawaii alone.
and the blue underwater world.
nice turn Jun-san!
come to find out, Jun-san knows so many of my kansai friends. Naohiro, Seigo-san, Ryosuke, Nahoko-san, Hitomi-chan, and so many more. what a small world! want to say hello to you all!
looking at diamond head watching the helicopter go by on the upper right. thinking about the crash the other day at pearl harbor, thinking about how accidents just happen. and also thinking about how life could end in just a flash. so sitting in the lineup in the beautiful ocean made me appreciate my life so much.
then we went to Diamond Head Cove Bar. seen my friend Paul there and he came over to pour us some freshly squeezed Kava. total local style to da max! thanks Paul!
Kava and acai bowl. the best in hawaii!
want to thank Jun-san and Kaco-san for the wonderful afternoon yesterday. so stoked to make my kansai world a much bigger and happier place. i’m sure i’ll see you guys around again soon. enjoy the rest of your trip and enjoy the hawaiian local lifestyle.
yesterday was a better day to surf because the waves were good. today was a better day to work on Mayuki because the waves were junk. doing a job like this is extremely stressful. and it would be more extremely stressful if the waves were good. luckily everything worked out perfectly for everyone. haha.
