welcome back trade winds! omg, it feels so good to have the trade winds back! hot sun, blue sky, and cool winds. i love it! i told Yumi-chan today, “you are very lucky because the waves this afternoon are offshore and perfect!”
since it’s been a while since we surfed together, i asked Yumi-chan to paddle out by herself, find the lineup, and try to catch a wave alone. it’s a test to see if she remembered everything i taught her. and guess what?
she paddled out in the perfect place, waited in the perfect place, caught the wave in the perfect place, and rode it absolutely perfectly! all by herself!
then she kept on going and going. wave after wave surfing it perfectly! i was so proud of her!!!
then we went out for a free dive. today was Yumi-chan’s deepest dive to date. just watching her so calm and relaxed deep under makes me feel so happy. this is the most peaceful place in the planet! great job Yumi-chan!
and i’ve been free diving a lot recently. everybody i take seems to love it. it’s been 32 years and counting since i’ve been doing this and i’m falling in love with it more and more. it’s my place and space where i’m in control of my own mind. it’s me vs. the wild. i can do this every single day of my life and never get bored. tomorrow again? maybe!
anyway, going to a big party tonight with some very important friends. hope i can keep my eyes open!
