had an amazing morning with Otani-san. super energetic guy who loves to surf! i couldn’t believe we surfed for 3 hours!
i just love teaching guys how to surf. it’s like a total boot camp because i’m like a Sergeant yelling at a Soldier from start to finish. and i won’t give any slack until surfing is done perfectly. perfectly like this.
and once you perfected the basics, then surfing will be 10x more fun. i’m sure Otani-san will go back to Japan a reborn surfer.
if you haven’t eaten Pho in Hawaii before, you must try it. it’s my total recommendation and i still haven’t met anyone that didn’t like it. thank you for the wonderful morning Otani-san!
the winds were super onshore and ugly after lunch. then i seen the storm coming and the weather changing. so i waited up a mountain and kept on looking at this totally super secret barreling spot for an hour. i knew the winds would change to offshore so i parked my car, and paddled 45 minutes to this spot. right when got there, the winds switched and the waves were fricken epic!
big walls of swells breaking over very shallow reef making super steep and deep barrels. only had one guy out so i told him “if you tell anyone where this spot is, i will punch you. and if i tell anyone where this spot is, please punch me.” we took turns getting barrel after barrel. i swear i thought i was surfing in Indonesia or something. it was the best session i had in a very long time!
had so much fun i surfed way to long. i went out after lunch and it was so late!!! it was getting dark and my arms were like rubber. my eyes sunburnt, but my heart filled with warm barrels. i’m so tired, but also so freaking happy now!
