good evening. the south shore was pumping today. i drove by diamond head this evening and seen a 5′ set. and the direction was super west. might have to sneak in a dawn patrol session before my flight tomorrow. oh, and wanted to thank boys mike akima and alvin for the sick right they gave me at bowls this morning. got in four turns on this overhead perfect right on my last wave. it was the best right i ever caught out there. stoked…. good night…
i hate to talk about airplane crashes before i travel but a thailand domestic airplane loaded with foreign tourists crashed today on it’s way to phuket. 88 dead. shit. that’s scary….
traveling isn’t as easy and fun as you think it is. the excess baggage bullshit at the airport, the layovers, flight delays, and time to destination. that’s the shitty part. but when you catch your first wave on your surf trip, it’s all worth it…. this was our layover at singapore airport on our way back to japan from north sumatra a few years ago. that’s me, hayato, and maoh in this photo… i once had a 5 hour stop over in mexico city airport by myself. it was pretty scary. i took a nap with my backpack on. well, i tried to take a nap. if you get robbed in another country, your done…..
this is one thing i’m looking forward to my 2 days in japan. fresh ass sashimi….
and japan has the best ramen in the world. there is even a ramen museum there. this is a secret ramen spot in japan where the charsu melts in your mouth. oh, can’t wait….
