each day, i give Rikita-san options. most of the time he says “up to you.” but today, he didn’t want to say that after what happened yesterday on Molokai. he knows i was leaning towards another day of high risk adventure. so to be safe, he chose Diamond Head. haha.
and the waves were super fun! so easy, so comfortable, so confident, and so happy. this is what surfing is all about…
Rikita-san is getting better surfing, and i’m getting better taking photos. so stoked for both of us!
one year ago, we’d be colliding. but now, we surf in harmony…
straight to Rikita-san’s favorite lunch after a wonderful surf session.
we had the full day so we did what surfers do, which was to go checking out friends in the surf industry. this is David from Surfco. a very smart man that has invented amazing products such as the Nose Guard. he was showing us some of his new inventions.
Rikita-san wanted to go check out factories so we first stopped by to see Glenn Pang. super famous shaper that’s been making thousands of surfboards for pro surfers for many years…
Glenn started shaping foil boards so we were looking at some of his new innovations.
then stopped by to check out Carl Scharper at his factory on the North Shore. another amazing shaper that’s been building boards for decades…
and along the way, just playing around like little boys do. connecting to the tree in this case. haha…
then went for a super late evening session with Seira-chan. surfed till pitch dark.
yesterday i left my house at 5am and got home at 6:30pm.
today i left my house at 7am and got home at 8pm.
it’s been like this and will be like this for a while. so long i keep my batteries recharged, i’m good to go! goodnight and see you tomorrow morning!
