Had an amazing surf session with Shiina-san.  He caught so many waves that I lost count.  

We were practicing the cutback over and over.  Doing it so many times that it became muscle memory.  According to Shiina-san’s watch, he rode 35 waves this morning!  Sugoi!  

The girls were out switching boards and connecting to what ever they rode.  Practicing over and over where maneuvers are becoming so natural.  

Allen was swimming out taking some photos of the girls again this morning.

Nobody can believe that Rocky has only been surfing for 4 years.  Her level is already so advanced and it’s getting better each day.

Got this photo of Malcom the other day.  I think he caught this one all the way to his car and probably smiled all the way home.

Turtles are beautiful but remember this is food for sharks.  

I miss surfing with Tokura-san and Deco-san.  Spending the summer living the Hawaii lifestyle.  

It makes me super happy to see Tokura-san surfing so good at 75 years old.  That’s every surfers dream.

Spent the afternoon in the sand with my Grandnephew’s.  Future watermen?  This is how it all starts.

Yesterday once more: Eddie Would Go.

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

The girls were swimming in from Bowls this morning.  All of a sudden, this Hawaiian Monk Seal appears from the side and was trying to race the girls to the beach.  Of course the Monk Seal won.  This was a very rare and lucky encounter.

On this particular wave, I was shooting from the top of the wave yelling “go left!”  Then the bottom turn starts as she goes left.

I’m still at the top of the wave watching her pass by.  Usually this will be the last photo I’d get but since I had room, I decided to ride the wave so I paddled hard.

I was going down the wave behind still pointing my camera.  This is my favorite angel because you can see exactly where she’s going.

Then she starts the cutback and suddenly realizes I was riding on the bottom of the wave.  She freaked out and said “where did you come from?”  Then fell.  Haha.

Round 2 Diamond Head all alone.  Riding sets from the very outside just like how the locals do it.  That’s major progression this week!