good morning. 5am and i’m so wide awake. slept like a baby for the past 2 nights. i can feel my body getting back to normal. i just hope my surfing does too. i can’t wait to get in the water. going straight to backdoor. see you later….

my nice breakfast…

i went to the doctors office to check out my health before my surgery. it’s something you have to do 1 week before a surgery. i walked in and said “hey doc, i feel super fine!” he said “ok!” it was that fast and easy….

so there i was in wakayama getting ready to jump in the onsen. it’s 6 pm in the evening and after a long 6 hour train ride, i couldn’t wait to soak up the hot springs. i walk in, take off all my clothes, and soaked in there for 30 minutes. i had the place to myself!! i was so happy looking out at the ocean view and reflecting on the day we had. i get out, rinse off, put on my clothes, and meet the rest of the group for dinner.

after dinner, i went looking for kimura-san and hayato. i called their rooms and nobody answered. i knew that they had to be in the onsen. so i went downstairs and walked into the onsen i was in earlier. OH MY GOSH!!! mari-chan was in there. i was wondering what the heck was she doing in the mens onsen????? she told me “kirby, nani shitteru no???” eeh??? i felt like i was in the twilight zone or something. she told me that i was in the womens onsen. OH MY GOSH!!! i freaked out!!! of all these 18 years of going into onsens, i’ve been going into the wrong one…..

then i thought, i bet women probably walked in on me and was wondering why a man in in their onsen. and me not knowing anything, probably left before the police arrived. what a weird experience…..


*so for those foreigners that go to onsens in the country side. there aren’t any signs that say MEN or WOMEN. there is just a “YU” japanese character on there and the red means womens, and the blue means mens. after all these years, i finally figured it out. sorry mari-chan….

Go-Naminori on North Shore!!!
I Want To Get Barreled!!!

good evening. what a beautiful day it was here. it was pretty hot but nothing compared to bali. the waves were clean and glassy around the island. i surfed diamond head lighthouse because only 5 guys were out. it felt good to back in hawaiian waters. i have 3 more days to surf until i get my eye surgery. then i can’t surf or go in the water for a month. so for the next 3 days, i’m surfing all day long. my sister called me and said backdoor was going off. that’s where you’ll find me tomorrow morning…. see ya….
and about my hand? it still hurts so bad. every time i bump it or touch something, i get this killer pain. i can’t even turn the key to my car with my right hand. i called a hand surgeon yesterday and he can’t do it until nov. 14th. there’s no way i’m going 2 more weeks like this. does anybody know a good hand surgeon??? please help!! if i can’t find one, i’m going to cut my hand open and do it myself… well, maybe not….

i drove by a parking lot in town and seen this lady hanging out with the birds. i thought it was pretty cool. i stopped my car, took a photo, and told the lady, “cool”….
**i’ve been getting so many emails about the song nada sou sou, hawaiian version. yes, keali’i reichel sang it and i actually went to one of his concerts a few years ago and heard it. ever since then, i played it over, over, and over. anyway, here is the hawaiian version for keiko-san in kobe. i hope you like it….
**check out this comment left on youtube…
the lyrics from japanese version and hawaiian version are different but they both wrote about someone important they lost because both islands had a hard time in their history. okinawan and hawaiian know how eachother feel about their family and their harsh history. its funny how only these stuff fit together between japan and america. i mean they are so different but hawaii and okinawa are like brothers and sisters. its cool