3-5′ Solid South Swell.
Sunny with Trade Winds.
Bowls and Big Right’s Going OFF!!!
kore kara surfing ittekimasu!!!
nami ii yo!!!

good morning. i’m so happy to come home to blue skies and a new south swell. the waves are pumping today!!! i seen some solid 4′ sets at bowls and ala moana park. off shore winds and sunny!!! gosh, am i a lucky guy or what? i wanted to relax but with waves 10 minutes away from my house, i’m going surfing!!! have a nice day and enjoy life….

i pulled up to ala moana park yesterday around 6:46pm to check the waves. i seen some nice ones out at big rights so i paddled out as the sun was setting. there were 6 guys out. then 5, then 3, then only one other surfer in the whole ocean as it was getting dark. i caught a wave in the pitch dark in and had a great welcome home session. anyway, i just seen a 5′ set. i’m out of here…

by the way, did you hear about the surfer who tried to paddle over 5lbs of marijuana from mexico to the u.s? yup, he got busted….

and last, i saw this car parked outside of a korean restaurant in hawaii. freakin lazy ass….

good evening from hawaii. gosh, it’s good to be back home. my flight back to hawaii was 100% full. i’m glad to see the japanese tourists coming back to hawaii. i surfed today, bought a speargun, and relaxed. i’m here for a whole month so i’m going to enjoy it. the last 17 days were pretty crazy for me. all the airplane rides, trains, boat trip, and automobile driving wore me out. i was looking at my new passport that i just got last year and couldn’t believe that 12 out of the 17 pages are full of stamps already. and the traveling i’ll be doing for the rest of the year will be nuts. oh well…. i ain’t complaining but i need some time for my body to recover. i’m going to sleep and nobody better wake me up….. i spent some time downloading the 1854 photos i took. check some out from the other day in chiba. have a great evening…..

it’s pretty fun surfing in chiba, especially when your in the water with people you know. yoko and yuko are 2 cool girls that surf really good. all the boys out there were watching them….

everybody’s been telling me that the tv crew are filming hayato’s everyday life. i think that’s cool because hayato has a really interesting life indeed. wake up in the morning, grab a raw egg from the chicken outside, eat it over hot rice with fresh shirasu from yamari, jump in the electric car to get a morning surf, come back home and eat vegetables from the garden, build a deck outside your house, go for another surf, walk on the jetty and grab a few lobsters, dig in the sand for some clams, go home eat sashimi and clam miso soup, feed the chickens so the next morning you can eat another egg, and go to sleep. then the next day, something totally different. yeah, that’s a very interesting life that a lot of japanese would be interested in. i’m just wondering if they will show hayato sticking a knife in the chickens heart one morning, eating the heart raw, and making yakitori from the rest? haha….. stay tuned because you will never know what’s going to happen…..

the last time i seen misao tako (owner of sequence surfboards) was at this big wave spot in chiba 2 years ago. it was just the 2 of us early in the morning during one of the biggest surf days in the history of japan. typhoon ioke. remember that? we both had 9’6 guns trying to survive the 15′ closeouts in the middle of the bay after being dropped off by skis. nobody was smiling that day. but now that we survived it and are still alive, we can look back and laugh at that day. a day that i will never forget…. so tako-san pulling into this barrel at torami is like a walk in a park for him….