head high and good wave.
atama de ii nami desu.

good morning. it’s been pretty relaxing here in hawaii. the sun, surf, fresh air, and lots of aloha. it feels great when people you don’t even know say hi to you. it’s the aloha spirit that makes this place so special….. i’m checking the waves now and it looks pretty fun. waist or maybe chest high at bowls with only 4 guys out. super clean conditions with no wind. 3 guys out at kaisers now. i bet diamond head’s the spot today. ala moana park looks fun too. only 15 guys or so out now. it’s 6:30am and the onshore winds should be coming this afternoon so get on it early. have a nice day. see you in the water….

hey, did you know there was an open market in hawaii kai on the weekends? it’s tucked away behind panda so it’s pretty hard to find. the fruits and vegetables are so fresh!!!

i got my fruits and vegetables for the week i’m here. i gained 15 lbs. in japan so it’s time for me to get back into shape before i gain 15 lbs more on my next trip. surf and eat healthy is the way to go….

as i was driving home for an afternoon surf yesterday, i saw the most amazing sunset. tall palm trees and amazing sunsets? yup, this is hawaii!!!

i was with my 2 nieces yesterday. both 16 years old and growing up way too fast. i wish they can shrink back into little kids again. i just want to remind all you kids out there. uncle kirby carries a loaded gun in his back pocket, and also has 2 loaded spearguns in his car. so if you even think about it, i won’t hesitate to pull the triggers….
**and last, want to thank everybody for the comments on the last video i posted. yeah, diamond head is a beautiful place and yeah, it doesn’t get like that often. that was a lucky day and i’m glad i got it on video. i’m planning to shoot another video on a normal day and you will see the difference. but all in all, diamond head is a beautiful surf spot and is the most consistent break on the island. it never ever gets flat. and for all of you who is asking who mari is. stay tuned for another video. mahalo.
#4 – Most Viewed (Today) – Travel & Events – Japan

what’s going on? there have been so many natural disasters recently. it’s a weird feeling for me because i’ve actually been to all these places. it kind of makes me think…..

this is the Ambacang Hotel in Padang, Indonesia before the earthquake. it’s so weird because i passed by there twice this year. this is a hotel where a lot of surfers stay right before or after a mentawai boat trip….

and this is the Ambacang Hotel now. sad. i heard that yesterday there were trapped hotel guests still texting their relatives saying that they are trapped under the rubble. i hope they can find them soon…. there were a few surfers staying there but got away safely….

then this is the Salani Resort in Samoa where i stayed before. that bungalow was kinsan’s and my room. i heard that there is no Salani Resort anymore. the tsunami completely wiped out the whole resort…. sad….

this was the aftermath in samoa. i don’t even want to think what would happen if a tsunami hits hawaii. i get the chills.
**all i can say is to live a happy life. i don’t think any one of the thousands that died in these natural disasters ever thought that’s the way their lives will end….
**and last, somebody asked me if i will ever go to samoa or the mentawai’s again. the answer is yes. i love to travel and know that these are the risks. certain things in life you just can’t predict and if you think about it, no where in the world is safe. if it’s your time, it’s your time no matter where you are. so take a vacation, travel, and enjoy life….