north shore today was going off. velzyland 3-4′ and perfect. surfed
almost 4 hours. i’m so tired….

good morning. 6:30am aloha friday. the waves on the north shore came way down. pipe looks only 3′ right now but things will change soon. buoy 1 is 7 feet 19 seconds so the next big swell is on the way. town is in the waist high range and these light trade winds are making conditions pretty dam good everywhere. i’m surfing all day today. have a nice day and see you in the water…..

it’s pretty amazing how you meet people from all walks of life through surfing. surfing is my life and so are the people i meet. kimura-san and atsuko-san are like my family. if it wasn’t for surfing, i wouldn’t have met them. and if i didn’t meet them, i wouldn’t be the person i am today….

it was yakiniku seoul garden for dinner last night. the best korean yakiniku in town. if you don’t know where it is, just remember this, it’s next door to club femme nu. yeah, the strip bar femnu. and if you don’t know where i’m talking about, your lying… haha.. thank you kimura-san and atsuko-san for a great dinner and a great time…
**wanted to wish my friends carter and russ a happy birthday. let’s get together to celebrate soon!!![:?????????:][:?????????:]

good evening. big waves still rolling into the north shore. i heard that sunset was the spot. i took a break from surfing today and stayed in town. got a few things to do this week but after it’s all done, i’m moving back out to the north shore again. town and country? surf, eat good food, and have fun with my friends around the world. i love this life. oh, wanted to say hello to garut. sorry bro, i’ve been busy. we’re having a barbecue on saturday so see you there. kamu chinta saya???? haha…

team okinawa is finally here!! kazuma(9) and shoki(13) jumped in to get wet at kewalo’s. it was head high for them and perfect. only 2 other guys were out. i got kazuma’s first ever wave ridden in hawaii on video. youtube coming soon…. wanted to welcome kazubo-san, takahashi-san, mago-san, kimura-san, kazuma, and shoki to hawaii. the waves are going to be good all week long….

when i see parents and their friends sitting on the beach cheering on their kids, it makes me happy. it’s something i didn’t have while i was a kid so seeing this is kind of touchy for me. i hope these kids appreciate all the love and support their getting. and if they don’t, uncle kirby will kick their asses…

i remember the first time i crawled out of the water at kewalo’s. it was freakin scary. vana, crabs, eels, and rusted fish hooks all in those rocks. abunai…

and one last thing. i want to thank calvin maeda and steinlager pure for the love and support. these beers will be in good hands… more on this oishi beer coming soon. but for right now, i’m going to drink one… or two… kampai[:?????????:]