i’m pretty use to traveling light. i just take 3 tshirts, 2 walk shorts, 2 trunks, and one long pants where ever i go. the only thing is that i have to take some time to do laundry. this day in shikoku, i woke up early to do a load. waited till it’s done so i could hang it before i went surfing. hung it in the hot sun and headed to the beach. then it started pouring rain and i was 15 minutes away. i said forget it. went back later and had to wash it over again. these clothes were 2x cleaner than normal. living out of my suitcase for 2 months is ok for me. i just hope people don’t think i don’t wash my clothes because i wear the same clothes over and over. here’s the proof guys….
the barrels crew are awesome. i see these guys every year and see their surfing getting better and better. and when your surfing gets better and better, you get happier and happier. look how happy everybody is. and it’s still early in the morning at kaifu….
On the Road Again….
Good Morning from Bali….
selamat pagi!!! it’s such a beautiful day here in bali. we got to our hotel at 1am last night. had a few bintangs, and straight to bed. going to get a massage before heading to the airport again for a flight to timor. then by this evening, we should be heading out to the roti islands. just in time for the swell. 35 surfboards, 20 cameras, 8 spearguns, and 3 tubes of wasabi. i think we’re prepared. have a nice day….
Gone Surf/Diving….
every time i go on a trip, i try to get myself excited. excited by looking at old photos…
this was 1997 somewhere in indo…. yeah, big blue barrels..
and this is somewhere in indo last year. yeah, big GT’s…. now i think i’m excited….
**ok, i’m going to be on a boat and hopefully there isn’t any phone or internet connection. but if i hit a hot spot somewhere, get ready for some crazy photos. my batteries are charged, memory cards ready, and i’m ready to shoot big surf and big fish. on a big boat. in the meanwhile, since i’m so nice, i set up blogs for the next 2 weeks. haha… i had some time yesterday so i wrote some stuff. surf/dive/friends/youtube/stories, and just stuff. so stay tuned because as soon as i get some signal on my cell phone, i’ll send something over. the biggest swell of the year is heading to indo right as i speak so i’m going to surf my brains out. and dive a lot too. my goals? to get a 10 second stand up barrel, and spear a fish over 100lbs. two rides of my life… and at the same time, be happy and live a happy life…. wish you could all go with me. it’s a tough job but somebody’s got to do it…. sayonara…
and last, so many people sent me emails asking about the boat i’m going on. hey, i don’t know yet. ask me when i get back. but by the looks of this thing, i’ll be enjoying myself for a while. see that guy on the front? i’m going to push him overboard. why? because that’s my spot…. haha…