good evening. wanted to thank everyone for their concern. it feels pretty comforting getting sympathy emails from people i don’t even know. and encouraging to hear that my blog makes them want to live a happy life. i just got back home and it didn’t feel the same when i stepped off the airplane. mixed emotions i guess. i’ll just leave it at that….. but thanks again for your concern because it really helps….

bad medicine: i’m still trying to fight off this cold. been taking tylenol for the past 3 days and been feeling like shit. all the chemicals making me feel dizzy and drugged out. i forgot to lock the club house in shikoku one day. and when i stayed in a osaka hotel last night, i woke up in the morning looking for my key. i ended up finding it hanging in the key hole outside of my room. that’s just not me. i’m lucky it was japan. anywhere else, i would have been robbed silly…

good medicine: i jumped in the water today. as soon as i put my head under the water, my cold was gone. i felt fresh and clean. found a golden nugget 4′ barrel at big rights which made it all that better. it’s amazing how the ocean heals. totally amazing….
**as for the waves, heard the past 2 days were really good on the south shore. a couple guys told me that i missed it. guys, i didn’t miss anything. today was 4′ and super good for me. it felt good to be back in the water. got a lot of things going on this week so better go to sleep. goodnight…..

aloha, just wanted to let everybody know that lester falatea’s paddle out ceremony at waimea bay was moved to friday morning. so it’s not today. keep you posted on the time… mahalo…

hello everybody. first of all, i want to thank each and every one of you who sent me emails or called me concerned about my cold. yes, i was down, and still am. i guess my body was telling me to slow down…. when i first started this blog 2 years ago, i told myself that i was going to keep it all positive and not write about bad things. during those 2 years, a few bad things happened in my life and i kept it to myself. it was hard to do, but i did….
well, 2 days ago, i got the bad news of a friend suddenly passing away. i felt like i got hit by a car. then yesterday, i got the bad news of my grandmother suddenly passing away. now i feel like i got run over by a truck. i’ve got thousands of things racing through my mind, and millions of emotions. waves don’t matter anymore, parties don’t matter anymore, and my cold don’t matter anymore. nothing matters. all i want to do is get back to hawaii and be with my family. i’m flying out today for a few days and wanted to say sorry to all the people for not returning their phone calls and emails. i just need some time to myself…. mahalo….