ALA MOANA BOWLS 3′ AND GOING OFF!!!
BLUE SKY, BLUE WATER, BLUE BARRELS….

good morning. 6:30am and the waves are looking pretty small. north shore looks 2′ max. town came up but not by that much. i seen a chest high set a bowls. the park has more surfers than waves. gosh, there must be 25 guys out sitting around out there. south shore hype again? i’m going down to check out bowls for myself. i got a new board so i’m surfing no matter what…. see you in the water….

this is my new board i got yesterday. my stickers are on, it’s waxed up, and i’m ready to ride it today. can’t wait…

this is a TSSC mike woo shaped 6’0 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4 squash tail. mike calls this model the “KRYPTON”. the stringer on the tail is wider than the stringer on the nose. it’s something to do with the flex of the board. new technology??? i’ll let you know how it works…

this is the first time i’m trying the new FCS system. i heard it’s better then the old system. i’ll let you know how that works too…
**and last, leave you with this video of a wave pool in japan. if you think our pools in hawaii are crowded, think again….

hey, did you hear about the underwater volcano eruption in tonga today? this is the craziest photo ever. i wonder if you could have surfed the swell???? and lucky no tidal waves…

i was shooting the other day and dennis pang pulled up to ehukai early in the morning. dennis shaped my first ever north shore gun. it was a 6’10 town and country surfboard i used in the winter of 1987. i remember paddling out on huge 15′ days at sunset with tony moniz. and when ever he would yell “GO”, i went. sometime i made the wave, but most of the time my board was too small and i ate shit. i still can’t believe i survived all those years surfing with tony on the biggest days on the north shore. from dawn to dusk. it feels good to be alive…

oh, this girl i was asking about the other day is missy valdez. she is a 19 year old UH student from wahiawa. this chick rips!! thanks kaz sano for the info…

i took this photo of myself at diamond head yesterday. i just wanted to have a photo of me with diamond head lighthouse in the background. gosh, it was a beautiful day!!! today was totally the opposite. the weather was as ugly as it could be….

and last, thank you jeannie chesser for sending me this photo of a hawaiian style barbecue…. isn’t that a foodland shopping cart? great idea…
*hey, right before dark, i seen a shoulder high set at bowls. the swell is here!! south shore tomorrow!!!