good evening. woke up and checked out the buoy. 9 feet 19 seconds early morning so that means BIG by afternoon. when i checked the waves at 7am, it was only 2-3′. then when we pulled up 2 hours to check out backdoor, the waves were on the rise. maybe 6′ and pumping…

this is Made Adi Putra or better known as Bali ripper “BOL”. he came to town last night to watch the UFC fights with us. we were driving our way out to pipe and i could imagine what he was thinking, “shit man, i’ve been here for 3 weeks and the waves and winds have been shitty everyday. i wonder if i will finally get a big pipe barrel today so i can finally go back to bali”…. go Bol…

there were 2 policemen pulling over speeders this morning at the haleiwa bypass. please drive slow, and drive safe….

pulled up to backdoor to check the waves and every single japanese on the north shore was there. that’s jun jo, ryu nakamura, tetta mori, u-ske in this photo. kinsan, kondo-san, shuji kasuya, and more… i call the guys from japan that come in march “hardcore”….

we ended up surfing velzyland. today was the kind of day where you could have your best session ever, or your worst. it was already too big but there would be a sick double up every so often. as i was paddling out, i seen pancho sullivan get one of the heaviest barrels i’ve ever seen ridden at velzyland. i paddled out and said “ho, how was that one?”. pancho answered “that was probably the best barrel i’ve ever gotten in my life out here”. enough said…. as for my session, i was duckdiving 20 waves straight before catching one. then another 20 waves again before catching another. after a few rounds of that and fighting the current, it was time to go in. the waves got too big but i loved the workout….

after eating some awesome thai curry at the lunch wagon in haleiwa, it was time for the long drive home. rain makes me tired and i’m glad i made it home safe… going to bed and waking up early tomorrow morning. surfing again!! good night….[:Zzz:]

9am Backdoor. 5′

good morning. buoy 1 is 9 feet 19 seconds so watch out because the waves will jump up to 10′ by evening. right now it’s only 4′ so be very careful. no winds right now so the conditions look pretty good. finally some solid good waves on the way. i’m going surfing… have a nice sunday.. by the way, did you watch the quiksilver pro in australia yesterday? i watched kelly slater lose to wildcard julian wilson. what a heat. it was good to see because finally somebody else is going to win a contest. mick fanning looked pretty solid. more exciting surfing on the way..

ok, for the millions of you who own these olympus underwater cameras, BEWARE!! like any other underwater camera, the seals leak after a while. if you don’t grease it, it will leak for sure. just ask the 10 or so friends of mine who’s camera’s broke. see where my fingers are? put some silicone grease on the black part and this camera every so often and it should last for a long time. if you don’t, expect to buy a new one in a year or so. and these cameras ain’t cheap…