i got my new guns for this years typhoon season. a 6’4 and 6’8 matchi shaped tssc boards. freaking can’t wait to ride them….

do i look happy? i think so…..

matchi told me he takes 8 hours to make a board for me. i’m so stoked he puts so much time and effort into it. here is 16 hours of hard work. thanks matchi….

good morning. it’s 3:30am and pitch dark outside but i can hear the waves pounding on the beach. i’m going surfing. have a nice morning and a nice day….

these are the medicine for my eyes. the one on the left was the one my doctor gave me to stop the spread of the pterigum. i think it worked. there is still some white stuff on my eye that probably has to get scraped off when i get surgery. the eye drop on the right is called “Naphcon A”. you can find this in any drug store over the counter. this is the best eye drops ever. it cost $12 but worth every drop. i would look drunk everyday without this….
***did you know it cost $290,000 to raise a child until he or she is 17 years old in america? so the next time you want to raise a child in america, you better have a good job. or rich parents. haha… just wanted to take this time to say “thanks mom”….

good evening. the tsunami came and gone and nobody even knew about it. it supposed to have come at 9am and i was surfing with matchi at that time. maybe one of us caught the wave? oh well…. anyway, we left this morning at 3:30am and i finally got back at 2:30pm. it was a long day of driving and super hot too. we jumped in a river to rinse off and it felt pretty good. cool fresh water on a hot summer day…..

check out some photos of the awaodori dance the other night in tokushima. it’s something worth seeing….

the streets were loaded with girls in this costume. i’d say at least 10,000 of them….

they closed every street in the city and there it was jammed packed with people everywhere. you could barely walk on the sidewalks. seemed like a million people were there….

after 15 years of coming to japan, i still feel like a tourist. got to have one of these photos…..

on the way back today, we stopped by a river mouth near matchi’s house. i was watching this little perfect knee high wave peeling off to the side. i was thinking how much fun my nephews would have on this wave. i wish i can bring all of them here someday….

and here i am back home. i love it here. wake up to the sound of the waves. and the nights have been so clear that you can see millions of stars shinning all night[:???:][:???:][:???:]