good morning. 6am and how was that full moon last night? awesome… so big and so bright… i totally spaced out, i should have went surfing. aaahhh.. well, once again, still some waves in town. seen a head high set at bowls with pretty clean conditions. a little morning sickness but like yesterday, it should get good as the day goes along. 12 guys out at rockpiles and about 18 at bowls. the park’s looking kind of crowded already. over 40 guys. where’s the spot yesterday? big rights. where’s the spot today? can’t tell you now. tell you tonight. i’m going to head out to shoot my friend from japan. surf, shoot, and get barreled. see you guys out big rights.. oops, i guess you know where the spot is today…. have a nice day…

hey guys, it’s going to be another night of live music at snappers. russ and ciara are playing there live tonight from 6-9pm in the lounge. don’t miss it….
**click here for directions to snappers @ discovery bay….
**matchi is one of the first guys i met when i went to japan. we traveled around this world over all these years and had some pretty awesome experiences. matchi’s from one of the most beautiful island in japan, called shikoku. i was there this spring and shot this clip of him talking about my board and stuff about hawaii. i asked him to speak in english so my friends in hawaii can understand what he was saying. because in japan, everybody already knows who matchi is. and if you don’t, i’ll give you 5 words that best describe him. kind, driven, funny, happy, good surfer, traveler, friend, shaper, surfer, and one of the warmest hearts you will ever meet. oh, that was more than 5 words. i guess it’s impossible to describe matchi in 5 words. he’s just too nice of a guy…. check out his interview….

good evening. gosh, what a surprise today. i thought the waves went down so i headed to the park to jump in and get wet at concessions. but when i pulled up, big rights was going off. and nobody was out. well, guys were out but not too many. the wave were perfect… some barrels, and some clean ripable faces. winner of the last 6 star kekoa basalco paddled out and just killed it. fresh off the plane from the other side of the world. yeah, it takes 2 days of traveling to get back to hawaii. been there, done that. and don’t want to do it again. it took me weeks for my body and mind to get back to normal. anyway, the waves are going off here in hawaii and the weather is perfect. sleeping early because can’t wait till tomorrow…. good night….

i was at pier 38 the other day driving around and noticed this new restaurant. uncle’s fish market and grill. being the curious guy i am, i parked my car and went on in….

the inside was pretty cool. good atmosphere and great menu. kind of expensive but if you want fresh seafood, nowhere is cheap. if it’s cheap, don’t eat it…. did anybody try here before? please let me know before i spend $20 on lunch the next time i’m around that area…

palolo valley has an olympic size pool. and it’s free for everyone. i never use to appreciate it until i started going to japan and payed $5-10 to jump into a pool the size of a jacuzzi. not including $6 for parking, and $10 of toll road fees to get there. lucky i live hawaii….

and last, who ever has been stealing the empty bottles from kiki’s every night, please stop it. the kids in our schools need it more than you….

good morning. 6:45am on this beautiful wednesday morning. wow, did you see the lakers/celtics game last night? it was awesome.. well, my team won so i guess it’s awesome. to all you lakers fans out there, sorry… haha… well, still got some waves in town and on the north shore. seen some shoulder high sets in town but got some morning sickness conditions. wait, i just seen a 3′ set at bowls. the trades are starting to kick in so it should clean up as the day goes along. it doesn’t look that crowded so get out there and enjoy before the next south swell crowd hits this weekend. laniakea looks super fun too. 10 guys out with chest high and epic conditions. waves everywhere for everybody. i’m outta hea….

i wanted to thank shinobu-san for sending me these photos from japan. this is matsuo and tatsuya teaching her kids ryoma and taku how to surf in chigasaki. those kids are the cutest. and matsu and tatsuya are the coolest….

hey, isn’t that alyssa? yeah it is, alyssa is in japan doing promotions for RLM wetsuits. it’s so amazing how everybody is linked somehow. everybody knows somebody and somebody knows everybody so everybody knows everybody. get it? that’s the cool thing about the surfing world. it’s so huge, but at the same time, so small….

and last, wanted to wish yoshi a happy birthday. he busted out this expensive bottle of red wine last night. that was the best dam red wine i’ve ever tasted. after a couple glasses, i forgot what it was called…[:????????????:][:????????????:]
**and last last, i was wondering how golfers get hurt all the time. tiger woods has a bad knee? how? how do you get hurt playing golf? did he fall off the cart? i just don’t get it. i play golf and the only way i almost got hurt was when i tripped over a tree root when i went to take a piss…