good morning. 6:30am monday morning. looks like town is trying to come up. it’s still small but looks like there are more swells then yesterday. just a little… waist/chest high at bowls with only 6 guys out. i guess everybody’s working today. north shore is flat… light trade winds and super sunny skies so get out there and enjoy. heard typhoon 5 swells are hitting japan already. gosh, wish i was there…. you know how hard it is for me to be missing that???? kurushi….
check out these waves from typhoon 4 in kamakura. wanted to thank eri in shonan for sending me the photo you stole from NECO-K’s blog. haha…
and wanted to congratulate shun for another victory!!! this kid’s on a roll…..
**and last, remember this chick from youtube? approaching 3.3 million hits. why? why? why? please tell me why?
Typhoon Season ON in Japan…
Surfline Spot Check-Cloud 9 by John Callahan….
good evening. small waves again today. south swell coming tomorrow and so are the strong trade winds. i’m going to get out my twin fin, four fin, and single fin this week and do some retro surfing…. can’t wait… have a safe evening. oh, wanted to thank everybody that sent in such nice comments in the presents section. last months presents was donated by spice clothing and i was so happy to see the great response. i wish i could give everybody something. maybe someday… this months presents are pretty cool too. yumie’s busted out her books and i bet a lot of people want that. and it’s even signed… wow, yumie didn’t even sign mine???? check out the presents section BY CLICKING HERE… good luck everybody…
just got an email from john callahan about a special they did on surfline.com. it’s his photo slide show/story about one of the best waves in the world, cloud 9. it was john who put sairgao island on the map. i remember the first time he discovered it back in 1992. when he came back to hawaii, he tried to get me to go there every typhoon season. at that time, i didn’t want to leave japan during typhoon season because i didn’t want to miss anything. finally, in 2003, i was invited by the philippines government on a fully paid and escorted trip to cloud 9 for an international contest. that i couldn’t turn down… 13 years after john discovered that flawless wave, i finally made it there and was welcomed by 8 straight days of 4-8′ perfect surf. i can’t even count how many barrels i got on that trip. probably the most ever for me. but it was that trip that made me leave japan 3 times after to chase typhoons in the philippines. and i’m looking forward to more….
if you surfed this wave for 8 days straight with a few other guys, wouldn’t you want to go back for more too? i will never forget this wave because i was riding my small board holding on for my life. if you seen how shallow it was this day at low tide, you would freak. the only thing separating you and the reef is about a bucket full of water….
**CHECK OUT THE FULL STORY OF CLOUD 9 ON SURFLINE.COM….. CLICK HERE…. THANKS CALLAHAN FOR SENDING THEM MY PICS…..
Meet Kimbo Slice….
good sunday morning. and happy june 1st. wow, how time flies…. going to japan next month already and can’t wait to surf some typhoons. nothing’s happening in hawaii as far as waves. still waiting for a big south swell so i can get barreled again…. today, small waves in town. knee high and crowded. yeah, packed… north shore is finally back to normal, flat. going to look for some waves to surf. where’s the best spot today? diamond head for sure… have a nice day….
**who is kimbo slice? i didn’t know until yesterday. kimbo slice is like tila tequila. he made his fame over the internet. how? backyard fighting and posting it on youtube. he was homeless after the floods in new orleans. lived in his car and took showers in pools. from nobody to most famous street fighter…. nuts… just this youtube video has almost 6 million hits.. check it out…
**after millions and millions of hits, he made his debut on prime time tv last night. paycheck? over $100,000 for that one fight. what a nuts story…. the kind of nuts stories i like…. check out his 3rd round victory last night…. go kimbo….
and meet gina carano. this chick fought last night too. don’t let her looks knock your ass out because her hands can too…. boxing is out, MMA is in….