Turtles everyday…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana overhead and getting bigger.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf and surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Another amazing morning session.  Nakahodo-san flowing with the ocean.

Good weather, clear water, warm, and a nice south swell.  This is paradise.

Nakagami-san trying out his new board today.  So far, it’s looking really good.

Nice rides for this happy man.

She keeps going, going, and going.

I came home to take a nap when the boys called me and said “Uncle Kirby, can we come over to play?”  How can I say no to these kids?  Impossible.

We played for a while, I sent them back home, then went back for Round 2.  We surfed my secret spot.  Nobody out, overhead, powerful, and lots of current.  Felt good to surf some empty and powerful waves!  Tired and sleepy.  Goodnight.

The other day my life almost changed.  I took off on a wave trying to get the normal photo from behind.  I do this hundreds of times but this one was different.  The guy fell, shot his board at me, and I was in total disbelief.  

I see the board coming towards me very quickly, I try to stick my hand out but it was too late.

I failed to block it and his surfboard went under my surfboard.  I was going pretty fast so when I ran it over, my board felt like it his a wall and stopped immediately.  I flew over the front head first.

Low tide mornings means it’s very shallow.  I thought I was going to hit my head on the reef for sure.  All I was thinking was “oh no, I’m going to the hospital today.”  

Luckily my head missed the reef by millimeters.  I pushed off the reef with my hand and the wave pushed me down even further.  I surfaced with no injuries.  I was a lucky man that day.

The other guys surfboard didn’t look too good after that.  That was from the fin of my surfboard.  Luckily it wasn’t his head right?  After this accident, I told myself that I won’t shoot photos from behind again.  Then the next day, I was doing the same thing.  Haha.