Today’s photo of the day:  Outside Waikiki surfing all to ourselves.  Score!

So as I was taking the drop, my fins slid sidewards and I couldn’t regain control.  I tried until the last second which was about right about now.  Now looking back, I wish I had bent my knees more because if I made it, that would have been the best recovery of my life.  

This is where I looked for a safe spot to land.  It’s crazy how fast things are happening but my mind is so calm that I have lots of time to think.  I was thinking that I’d better fall before the wave crashes on my head.  So you can see I start to angle my left shoulder down so I can penetrate the surface and not get sucked over the wave backwards.  

Left arm first, then shoulder will follow.  I’m looking exactly where I want to crash.  That wipeout looked and felt super crazy but it was actually pretty safe.  But we all know that a safe landing is only part of the outcome.  Mother Nature takes control of the rest…

Opps, I forgot to push the post button so this one didn’t upload.  It’s from February 24, 2025 which seems like years ago.

I got up really early this morning and one part of me said to go to the North shore.  The other part said to take it slow today.  So I listened to the smarter part of me.  Just a friend and I got to enjoy another morning at a secret spot.  Nobody out and perfect head high waves with lots of power.  

The waves were so good that I could do 4 turns on every wave.  It felt pretty good being so free.  

I came home and heard the news of another experienced surfer getting hurt at Pipeline this morning.  He hit his head on the reef and went unconscious.  The lifeguards gave him CPR on the beach and bought him back to life.  He was rushed to the hospital and we are all hoping for the best.  I won’t say his name out of respect for his family.  Seeing things like this is hard if you surf out there because this can happen to anyone and anytime.  I thought about this all day long…